Who are the "rich housewives of Leopards Hill Road," and what secrets does their enclave hold? Driven by curiosity and a dash of local legend, I embarked on a mission to explore Lusaka's most mysterious stretch—past the mansions and into its hidden gems.
I was in conversation with an old friend, many moons ago, when I was introduced to a term that still pulls a giggle from me every now and then: “the rich housewives of Leopards Hill Road.” Here, I must disappoint you, dear reader, because I cannot offer an accurate account of that conversation; my memory is hazy. But what I do remember is that the phrase describes an archetype of a woman who lives along Leopards Hill Road, from New Kasama towards Chongwe. This woman is said to be elusive, often found at if-you-know-you-know hotspots along Leopards Hill Road. While the archetype is hilarious to me for various reasons that I won’t list here, I was far more interested in investigating these lesser-known hotspots and exploring this mysterious area of Lusaka.
I’m happy to report that my curiosity bore fruit. A quick web search brought up a substantial list of locations, which I narrowed down to Zambean Coffee Co., Mary’s Bookshop, Zeela Art Gallery, and Muka Munya Monkey Pools. With the weather getting warmer, I was on a mission to romanticise Lusaka, and the conditions were perfect for a day of exploring.
On a meticulously planned Saturday, I set off on my quest to discover the mysteries of the Leopards Hill neighbourhood. With my friends in tow, we set off for Zambean Coffee Co., our first destination. The café is situated within Leopards Hill Business Park, a few kilometres from Leopards Hill Mall.
Zambean Coffee Co.
As we ascended the stairs to the café, we were greeted by bougainvillaea in bloom, dancing lightly in the soft wind and whispering of winter’s end. The café’s setting was beautiful, with seating options to suit all preferences. A waitress hurried over and invited us to sit anywhere. We settled at an outdoor table, and she quickly took our drink orders. Upon scanning the surroundings, I regretted scheduling our visit as part of this exploratory tour; it deserved a day-long visit of its own. I promised myself I would return under less rushed circumstances.
Ten minutes later, our waitress returned with our drinks, and we ordered our food to go: four chicken sandwiches with chips, a simple yet satisfying choice. The menu had a variety of options, from light snacks to hearty meals. After a few minutes, our food arrived, we paid, and were soon on our way. I started on my sandwich, and before long, it was gone. The sandwich was hearty and delicious, giving me yet another reason to return to Zambean.
Zeela Art Gallery and Homestay
Our next destination was Zeela Art Gallery and Homestay, famed for its extensive art collection and the founders’ ethos of making art accessible. I must confess that I’d been itching to visit this gallery, and this excursion gave me the perfect opportunity. The gallery is only a five-minute drive from Zambean Coffee Co., and visits are by appointment only. Not wanting to miss our chance, we rushed over.
The art on the premises is experienced in three phases: the Home, the Mural, and the Indigenous Knowledge Centre. I’ve visited several galleries in Lusaka, but none have felt as immersive as Zeela. Our viewing experience began with the Home, the Salasinis’ actual residence. I’d read about the founders, Mr and Mrs Salasini, who had amassed their collection of art over 20 years, and concluded that the experience would be lovely. Yet seeing the collection in person exceeded my expectations.
We headed back to the entrance, where a mural adorns a 200-metre wall around the estate. We walked through the expertly manicured gardens, embellished with elegant sculptures, and found ourselves in the Indigenous Knowledge Centre, again marvelling at the vast and varied collection of art. I had only ever visited commercial art galleries, usually expertly curated to sell art. Visiting Zeela felt like an intimate encounter with art, free from the usual fanfare of a traditional gallery visit. The Salasinis’ gallery is an invitation to view art simply for art’s sake, engaging with the beauty of life in both obvious and subtle ways.
Mary’s Bookshop
We almost did not make it to Mary’s Bookshop, the next stop on our leisurely quest. The bookshop closes at 13:30 on Saturdays (visitors, be warned!), and we arrived fifteen minutes before closing time. Although our visit was brief, I enjoyed the quaintness of the bookshop. Housed in a little white building just off Leopards Hill Road, Mary’s Bookshop feels like a store one might encounter in a charming but sleepy English village.
After a glance through the shelves and a moment taking in the compact surroundings, I settled on a copy of Ellen MacArthur’s Taking on the World, and we were off to Muka Munya Monkey Pools.
Muka Munya Monkey Pools
Muka Munya Monkey Pools, or Monkey Pools as it is often referred to, forms part of the Muka Munya Housing Estate. Access is free to residents of the estate, but visitors are required to pay an entrance fee. As we drove in, I jokingly asked the gate attendant if the place had any monkeys; to my surprise, he said it did. I was both amused and slightly nervous, as I had had bad experiences with monkeys in the past, but he assured us that we had nothing to fear, and in we drove.
Monkey Pools is much like a large park and reminded me of Adventure City from back in the day (if-you-know-you-know). Visitors can enjoy hiking, picnics, swimming, and playing tennis or squash at the courts, among other activities. The clubhouse doubles as a restaurant, which was closed for the day. We opted to take a leisurely stroll and enjoy the scenery. The highlight of the stroll was discovering the natural pool that sits at the bottom of a hidden rock basin. The view takes you by surprise, and it was a delightful discovery.
We bid Monkey Pools farewell, having seen no monkeys, and decided to return for a much longer stay on a different day to swim and have a lazy braai.
With my investigation concluded, dear reader, I present to you my findings. While I did not encounter the elusive housewife (I wasn’t really looking), I discovered a host of fun things to do along Leopards Hill Road. These destinations may seem inaccessible to the average Lusaka resident because of their distance from the city centre. I believe this distance is what feeds the notion that activities along Leopards Hill Road are exclusive. However, this perceived distance is a small price to pay for the worthwhile experiences these places have to offer. Get in the car, head to Leopards Hill Road, and let’s romanticise Lusaka together.
FAST FACTS & TIPS
- Zambean Coffee Co.: Brewing daily between 07:30 and 17:00.
- Muka Munya Estate: Monkey Pools is accessible year-round, with an entry fee of K300.
- Zeela Art Gallery and Homestay: Booking is essential. The gallery welcomes visitors from Wednesday to Saturday from 10:00 to 16:00.
- Mary’s Bookshop: Swing by Mon-Fri from 08:30 to 17:30 and Saturdays until 13:30.
